Ever stand in front of two similar products at the store and you wonder which one is the better buy? Do you go for cheap, or do you try to determine the value in the more expensive product?
A lot of purchase decisions come down to individual goals and priorities. You may not care if something lasts long because you have short term need. Or you may want the longer value, but are not sure if the extra price is really worth it.
This article is for discussing the “wiser buys”. Wiser buys are determining if paying more is worthwhile, why, and perhaps even the better place to get the wiser buy.
For example, I renovated my basement a couple years back. Tore out everything down to the concrete floor, studs, and joists above. Redid the electrical wiring, put up new drywall, taped and mudded, textured, painted, and installed new outlets and fixtures.
I outsourced the carpet installation, though, because by that time I was tired and frustrated with the project, and I did not want to mess up such a visible element. Even though I heard from many people I could probably do it myself, my goals were such that I had already saved enough money and was willing to pay a little more for a professional carpet installation.
I learned a few things about wiser buys from that renovation. For example, drywall sheets typically come in two thicknesses. The thicker ones are a bear to carry and lift into place. However, the thinner ones will eventually sag if used on ceilings. So the wisest buy is thicker drywall sheets for the ceiling and thinner drywall sheets for the walls.
Drywall also typically comes in 12′ and 8′ sections. You may get slightly better value from the 12′ sections, but they are much harder to handle. Unless you have a strong crew helping, you’ll likely break more sheets and lose that value. Therefore, the wiser buy is the 8′ sheets.
When hanging your sheetrock, you can use nails or screws. The wiser buy is to use screws, as you exert less energy and it’s easier to control the dimple. If you are drywalling anything more than a small room, it is also a wise buy to get a screwgun. I got an Hitachi model at Lowe’s for about $90, which seems excessive compared to using a $2 accessory for your existing drill. However, starting and stopping your drill as many times as you will hanging drywall can actually break down your drill. When I finished my project, I resold my screwgun for $50, making it a very wise purchase.
Drywall sheets need their seams taped for seamless walls. You can apply mud then tape then more mud by hand, or use what’s called a “taper gun” that feeds out the tape with mud on it automatically. Again, if you are drywalling anything more than a small room and you’ll want to invest in this taper box. Most local shops only carry metal taper boxes for about $80. Search online for “plastic drywall taper box” (or something to that effect), and you can get a plastic version for about half the cost of a metal box! It only takes a couple days to deliver the box, you save half the money, the plastic box is much easier to clean up than the metal box, and again you can resell it afterwards. Again, we have the wiser buy.
Speaking of joint tape, I want to know what others think is the wiser buy: paper or fiber mesh? They both cost the same, but a buddy advised me to get the paper tape. His reasoning concerned the sanding portion of finishing your walls. He said with mesh tape, you could sand through and have fibers pop out, creating a headache to fix. Paper tape just fuzzes up a little, which you can mud over easily. I don’t know if this is true, but I went with the paper tape and my walls came out great.
When applying mud to your drywall seams and screw dimples, you mix mud in a five-gallon bucket, then load out a workable load at a time into mud pans. You can get a stainless steel mud pan for about $10, or a plastic mud pan for about $4. However, the plastic mud pans usually have little metal ridges on the sides, which make them much harder to clean up than the plain all-metal mud pans. I had one of each during my renovation, and the stainless steel mud pan was always the favorite, therefore the wiser buy.
When texturing your walls, I really like renting the mud blower thing (can’t recall the correct term). It covers your walls in just a moment or two, so it takes care of business fast. However, it also throws mud all over the floor, so it create a huge mess if your area is already carpeted.
If you use texture brushes, you’ll generally find a single brush for about $8, and a double-sized brush for about $18. The double-sized would seem better because you could get the job done faster, however only the single fits nicely into your five-gallon bucket, so it is clearly the wiser buy.
In another area, consider trampolines. I heard this from a friend, that Wal-Mart sells trampolines for about $150-300, depending on if you get the enclosure netting or not. A locally-owned store on west Broadway, Ben Franklin, sells trampolines for about $475. However, go to that Madsen’s Ben Franklin and the owner will show you how their trampolines are much better quality than Wal-Mart’s trampolines, and that theirs will often last 20 years while the Wal-Mart version will start coming apart in the first couple years. The Ben Franklin version also has a repair or replacement warranty, making it an even clearer wiser value. Obviously you also have the benefit in this instance of supporting a local business owner.
What examples can you describe of a wiser value in a choice between two products?
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For another example, I was looking at getting rain gutters last year. My buddy and I were standing in the aisle, wondering aloud whether metal or plastic gutters were better.
A lady in the aisle with us advised that metal gutters tended to crumple, and that she believed plastic gutters to be the wiser buy.
What do you think?
So how much did you save doing the work itself? Was the time and labor worth the savings. My Mom wants her basement finished. Just wondering which you think is the wiser buy, do it your self or professional?
Interesting post Joe, but I’ve got to say it seemed like it is more about “home improvement” than it is about where to find the best or “wiser” buys. I mean the first 11 paragraphs were all about the improvements you’ve made on your home and what types of materials you used, not so much about where you actually purchased said materials. The last paragraph you finally touch on “where”.
Can we discuss ANY purchase’s and where we got a great deal on this post, or should I stick with home improvement? (I’ve got quite a few of both is why I ask)
Thanks
ps. i was wondering how much you saved as well.
Great points. I see the home improvement tangent I went off there. I actually picked that just as an example of a series of purchases, where each purchase offered at least two options, and at each junction I was not sure which product to take and why.
I didn’t mean to make it a home improvement deal, sorry!
Saving money vs. paying contractors is another aspect of deciding the wiser buy. I saved a ton of money doing it myself (at least a couple thousand bucks), but the whole renovation took about 3 months to complete. I wasn’t in a big hurry, so I could afford to take my time and save money.
If all you want to do is save money and do not care about quality, or if you want to save time and do not care about saving money, this wiser buy idea won’t matter.
If you want to save money but also want some value, then “wiser buy” advice can apply to most anything.
Yes, please feel free to give your advice on any particular purchases (not just home improvement-related) where you experienced one option was a better true value over the other, and especially why it was a better value.
Hope that’s clearer now.
Joe – ref your question about the tape; paper vs. mesh: use paper tape for inside corners or butt joints. Only use mesh on the finished seams. On mesh, the rough surfuce lays deep enough inside a finished joint (in that trough) to allow the mud to cover it up. If you use mesh on butt joints or corners, it is tough to work it out to smooth. Mesh saves a lot of time though, in a given room you have quite a number of feet of finished joints (where the finished edges of the sheetrock come together) Best buy? Buy both. Use as described to save a lot of time.
When it comes to processed-cheese snacks and meals, always go with Kraft. Seriously, have you ever tried the off-brand macaroni and cheese or the cheese slices? Cripes, how do they even call that food?
The wiser buy is the Kraft, albeit at a higher price.
Not wise
Bose Lifestyle 28 series III at $1999
For your money you get a basic DvD player with progressive output but no up conversion, a simple receiver with basic Dolby Digital and DTS, 5 plastic speakers that are not up to the task of filling most rooms with sound, tiny sub woofer that serious audio geeks don’t consider a sub woofer at all, and a brand name that is all marketing with no quality behind it.
wise buy
Yamaha RX-V1700 receiver. Offers HDMI switching and up conversion (you will only ever need 1 cable going to your TV), multi-zone functions ( play different sources in different rooms at the same time), fantastic pre-amp and amp, lots of flexibility. $799
av123.com x-ls surround package. Real wood veneers(better than most peoples furniture), solid construction, sound great/play loud, and the best customer service you will ever experience. $739
Denon DVD-557. Outputs 1080i via HDMI, supports high resolution audio formats, good black level, great color performance. $136
Misc cables to hook it all up from Impactacoustics (Monster cable is another foolish buy). $200ish
total $1771
so you get MUCH better sound, better looking and cheaper. You also earn enough respect from audio nerds that we might be willing to help you set it all up correctly
To continue with Slat’s theme:
Poor Buy: Plasma or LCD tv’s, period. Ranging in price from $1000-$4200 and up for 36 inch or larger, there is simply a much better option.
Wise buy: home theater hi-def projector and screen. Ranging in price from $300-2000 and you can buy models capable of hi-def formats.
Example: for our home theater, we purchased a Sharp XR-10X projector for around $800. It is capable of 480p, 720i, and 1080i formats (allowing me to use my hi-def channels from cableone, can’t wait until they offer the UFC ppv’s in hi-def). I use a house brand 120″ diagonal screen with my projector, and yes, that’s 10 feet. The screen was $300 on the internet.
So, for less than a decent 42″ plasma tv, I have image quality that equals it, at a 400% increase in viewing area. Yes, the room must be darker than some like, but our system works great with a lamp on at the back of the room.
I would encourage anyone who loves movies like my wife and I do to get a projector and screen, rather than a ridiculously overpriced plasma or lcd tv.
Great recommendations!
About the TV thing, I feel the plasma and LCD market is still too new with some technology kinks they need to work out. I heard LCDs were supposed to start dropping in price because the market was glutted with them and not that many people were buying, but I haven’t noticed significant price drops yet. Even if they get cheaper, don’t they have the technological issue of not displaying dark colors very well?
Regarding projectors, I think that’s the way to go also, but I’ve heard three drawbacks: light, noise, and bulbs. Sounds like you got a powerful model and don’t need to make the room completely dark, but they aren’t really something you want to install in your daytime-flooded living room, right?
I’ve also heard the fan noise on those projectors are distractingly loud, what do you think?
Finally what about the price of those projector bulbs, and how often do you have to replace them?
Most industry types agree that the Plasma market has stabilized and prices will no move much over the next year or two. LCDs still have to many draw back to consider for a main TV(viewing angle tops my list of draw backs).
I agree with Ronin, if you have the light control and space projection is the way to go. If you can’t control ambient light go with an RPTV of some sort. The RP DLP,LCD, and LCoS might not be thin or the “in thing” but at half the cost they are the much wiser buy.
Can we get back to the cheese debate? Who’s with me?
I prefer real cheese, usually packaged in a loaf. Rating a “processed cheese” above another brand isn’t saying much. Anything powdered or spreadable and gooey is not cheese in my book.
Great tips on the electronics items. I totally agree that Bose is overrated and overmarketed, and while I haven’t made a decision about what big TV to buy, the information here was very helpful.
i also prefer ‘real’ cheese to processed, and from a health standpoint, it is a much wiser buy than the processed varieties. My favorite kinds of cheese are colby-jack and havarti.
As far as the projectors go, yes there is some fan noise, but when combined with a great home theater, you certainly cannot hear it. Bulbs run 1-200 dollars for a replacement, but I have had my projector for almost 18 months, and have yet to replace a bulb. You are correct that they aren’t for a daylight basement or other room that cannot be darkened sufficiently.
I’d have to disagree with the “Monster Cables” statement. I’ve used Monster Cables on all of my home theatre and stereo equipment for many many years and although they ARE more expensive, their well worth the price. People spend hundreds and even thousands of dollars on a home stereo or home theatre system and then don’t realize they’re not getting the most out of their system because they use cheap cables.
Granted I haven’t used the “Impactacoustics” that were mentioned so I don’t know how they stack up. But I for one will gladly pay the extra money on Monster cables knowing that I’m getting quality that will last and outperform most anything out there.
In this case, you do get what you pay for.
Cheaper buy? sure. Wiser? not so much!
There is nothing wrong with Monster they just charge to much for what you get. “Impact Acoustics”, “Blue Jeans Cable” and “DVIgear” (many more too) make the same stuff for nearly 1/2 the price. They also provide industry standard testing data to show how the cables perform. The data does not lie Monster cable is better then wal-mart brand trash but is no different than any of the many high quality cables.
A video, I recall about 15 minutes long, demonstrating how easy it is to make your own high quality cables for “monster” savings.
I think he specifically mentions monster cables and why you don’t need to pay more for them.
http://revision3.com/systm/avcabling
Have you actually read threw those instructions Joe? Your average person is better off just buying the good cables and be done with it. After all you’ve got to spend 90 bucks on the tools alone, then the cables and then there’s some soldering that has to be done, which does take practice I might add. Not the easiest most time consuming job for your average Joe. (no pun intended)
I’m with CR6, I’ve used Monster cables on my home theatre system for the past few years, and I love em. I guess its all what you prefer and if you like things done right. Buy the good cables (or good compatibles as slats noted) and be done with it.
I have used Monster Cables on my home theater for about 7 years now. I didn’t find the cost that bad and I really like the quality. It was only a small percentage of my total cost.
I’m looking to purchase a new cordless drill and was wondering what would be a “wise buy” for this item. Something with some decent power but reasonably priced. I did some pricing last weekend at Home Depot and Wal-Mart and these things are kinda pricey for a good one. I’m thinking Black and Decker and I found a pretty nice 14.4 volt for I think it was around 54 bucks at Wal-Mart.
Should I spend the extra money and go with a higher voltage for more power? Whats the standard battery life on these things before you need to recharge them? Not that I’ll be doing THAT much work to where the battery will go dead on me, but it would still be nice to know how long these things usually last on a single charge.
Thanks!
The cordless drill question: For a very high quality non-commercial model, I recommend the Black and Decker Firestorm 24 volt. I have used cordless drills both professionally and private use. You can’t beat a Dewalt for long lasting quality under extreme conditions. For daily use, only a Dewalt will do. But they are expensive. For home use, the Black and Decker Firestorm will work great, and its much less money. By getting the 24 volt, you will have power above and beyond what you will ever need, and it will not burn out nearly as fast as the lighter models. They cost around $100 with two batteries and charger. I have used them all, and have been very happy with the Firestorm.
Oh, and the single charge question — I put up 66 feet of cedar fence recently — took about 800 screws. I had to switch batteries after about 500 screws… but the power from the Firestorm was great the entire time. I would estimate that you get 400 to 500 screws in soft wood — or about 4 or 5 hrs of use while building a deck. 2 Batteries will certainly last all day.
Thanks for the info Feelinlucky!
Having just put up around 200 feet of cedar fence myself, I could tell you what NOT to get. Anything that’s 12volts. I have a Ryobi 12v, and batteries would only last about 90 minutes, or 1.5 8 foot panels (about 100 screws).
Lucky is right on with his info, I borrowed a neighbor’s Firestorm, and was able to do all of my day’s work in one battery, and finished in a much better time, and with more torque to boot…
I read this Gizmodo review of cheap cables vs. expensive Monster cables and was reminded of our discussion.
While they said some cheaper cables may be slightly worse than Monster cables, the difference is normally negligible and not noticeable, and so long as you buy from somewhere with a good satisfaction guarantee you should go with the cheaper cables.
I liked their quote: “The only people who should buy Monster cable are people who light cigars with Benjamins.”
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/hdmi-cable-battlemodo/the-truth-about-monster-cable-+-grand-finale-282725.php
What are your suggestions for the purchase of a washer and dryer? Top loader vs. Front loader? Stackable vs. NonStackable. I have checked at Lowes, Home Depot and Dennings. The thing they all have in common is a lot of money. Dennings has offered the best deal to date. Any suggestions out there?
I have always been happy with Sears’ Kenmore brands. When my brothers and I bought my mom a new dryer a few years back, we researched around and the best deal was clearly a Sears Kenmore brand.
I’ve always heard the traditional top-loading washer is best, but you also have to account for the space you put it in, if you are constricted. The stackable do not handle as big of loads, but again they fit in tighter spaces. For the big front loading ones, I think it’s a matter if you can afford them.
Audiophiles could not tell the difference between expensive monster cables and coat hangers.
http://www.engadget.com/2008/03/03/audiophiles-cant-tell-the-difference-between-monster-cable-and/
Still think monster cables are a wise buy?
Coat hangers! That’s hilarious!